Com processos mais cuidadosos e foco na experiência sensorial, o café especial ganha espaço no mercado interno e impulsiona uma nova fase da cafeicultura brasileira
POR EDUARDO BETINARDI – ASCOM (AGÊNCIA P+G TRENDMAKERS)
O café nunca esteve tão em alta. O consumo do grão no Brasil cresceu 1,11% em 2024, conforme dados da Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café (Abic), totalizando 21,92 milhões de sacas. Enquanto o café tradicional domina as prateleiras dos supermercados, os cafés especiais ganham espaço em cafeterias, empórios e até no varejo online. Mas o que realmente diferencia esses dois tipos de grão?
A principal distinção está na qualidade do grão. O café especial precisa, obrigatoriamente, ser 100% Arábica e deve atingir no mínimo 80 pontos conforme os parâmetros da Specialty Coffee Association (SCA). Os atributos analisados incluem aroma, sabor, acidez, corpo, uniformidade e equilíbrio. Já o café tradicional é frequentemente produzido com grãos Robusta, mais resistentes, com notas mais amargas e produção voltada ao volume, não à qualidade sensorial.
Outro diferencial está no cuidado com os processos de produção. Embora ambos possam ser cultivados nas mesmas regiões e condições climáticas, o que define a categoria é a escolha do produtor. “Todo café que sai da árvore tem qualidade. O grande diferencial do café especial é a colheita e o processo de produção. A mágica é essa. Todo o processo de colher, transportar, secar e torrar. O que difere um café do outro é o cuidado que o produtor aprendeu a ter”, explica Breno Mesquita, presidente da Comissão Nacional do Café da Confederação da Agricultura e Pecuária do Brasil (CNA).
A valorização da cadeia produtiva também tem incentivado uma mudança de perfil no campo. Muitos jovens filhos de produtores estão assumindo a produção e investindo em conhecimento técnico para migrar de um modelo voltado ao volume para outro focado em qualidade e diferenciação.
“O café deixou de ser apenas uma bebida para se tornar parte de um estilo de vida. As pessoas querem saber de onde vem o grão, como foi colhido, quem produziu. Elas buscam autenticidade, história e sensações que vão além do paladar”, afirma André Henning, sócio fundador da Go Coffee, rede nacional de cafeterias que aposta na democratização do café especial, com grãos vindos do Sul de Minas e da Alta Mogiana.
Entre o café tradicional e o especial, há ainda uma categoria intermediária: o café gourmet. Em geral, ele é produzido com grãos da variedade Arábica, mas não atinge os 80 pontos exigidos na avaliação sensorial para ser classificado como especial. A nomenclatura gourmet indica um nível superior ao do café tradicional, principalmente em termos de seleção e torra, mas ainda distante da complexidade, do cuidado e da experiência proporcionada pelos cafés especiais.
“A diversidade de cafés que temos no Brasil ainda é pouco conhecida. Quando as pessoas experimentam um café especial pela primeira vez, muitas se surpreendem com a suavidade, o aroma e a doçura natural do grão. Isso abre um novo mundo de possibilidades”, complementa André Henning.
Foto: Diego Leite
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